Fall 2018 Haute Couture: Zuhair Murad Dreams of Saint Petersburg

A romantic vision of Imperial Russia inspired Zuhair Murad’s Couture 2018‑19 collection, as translated into richly embroidered gowns in jewel tones and military references.

Rich brocade was paired with Venetian velour and embroidered with crystals outlining arabesques, while soft tulle softened strict cuts, and floral motifs contrasted with coats-of-arms or Duchesse satin swept the floor, all in a palette of red wine, blue sapphire, khaki and black enlivened with gold accents.

The designer’s usual feminine looks were layered with the Imperial period’s military wear, including boyar-inspired jackets with royal eagle motifs, badges and corded detailing. A cropped A-line beaded dress in oxblood sequins sported a military collar and sleeves; a dress coat in kaki satin duchess was elevated with golden silk thread and paired with matching shorts, while a jumpsuit in celadon blue with chiffon sleeves was matched with a floor-sweeping cape.

Brazilian supermodel Alessandra Ambrosio opened the show in an embroidered cape dress in black crepe belted at the waist and embroidered with floral motifs in gold and burgundy.. The following model looked like a chic hussar wearing a two piece ensemble with a long-tail black jacket in velvet adorned with bronze epaulettes and embroidery with a a matching pair of trousers.

The collection included several caped pieces, belted at the waist, and worn over trousers, cropped double-breasted jackets and long caftan.

While fellow designer Rami Kadi’s collection reflected androgyny, Murad’s collection was more about bridging masculine and feminine ornamentation and functionality.