Spring 2025 Haute Couture: Dior’s Alice in Wonderland

The Dior spring-summer 2025 haute couture collection looked to past fashion – such as crinolines and the Trapèze line conceived for Dior in 1958 by the young Yves Saint Laurent – and gave it a new contemporary twist.

The crinoline, in its modern, practical version, proves to be an extraordinary breeding ground for the most excessive fantasies and motifs. This shaken cage concealing its construction discloses threads that stretch and undulate with every movement, like embroidered branches. Simply hiding its structure, the underwiring enhances light blouses sublimated by floral embroidery.

The Cigale silhouette – designed by Monsieur Dior for the autumn-winter 1952-1953 haute couture line – is reproposed here in the original moiré fabrics, adopted for a little skirt paired with a fitted tailcoat, accentuating the contrasting proportions. The cape is embellished with feathers delicately crafted in organza.

Dior’s savoir-faire here is at its best: A Tulle cape embroidered with embossed raffia petals, crystal pendants over a white silk organza top and organza bloomers, a column dress with lace sleeves is embroidered and accented with gray wick wool curlers, a short, collared dress in tulle is embroidered like a weave of natural raffia, organza flowers and straw trimmings over a small grosgrain crinoline while another is embroidered like a miniature garden in straw, raffia and lace, with dragonflies, butterflies and snails, over a bamboo crinoline.