Forget Me Not: Paolo Sebastian's Ode to Enduring Craft
For Spring/Summer 2026, Paolo Sebastian introduces Lyon lace into the atelier for the first time — a technical decision that sets the tone for the entire collection. Traditionally heavier and more intricately corded than French Chantilly lace, Lyon lace is prized for its raised detailing and durability. Drawn to its structure and depth, Creative Director Paul Vasileff selected it after visiting historic mills in Paris. “The lace is corded and almost has this paint-like watercolour quality to it. It carries this innate sense of strength and longevity, yet remains utterly beautiful,” he said.
The collection, titled Forget Me Not, references the myosotis wildflower — long associated with remembrance and enduring affection. While the emotional reference is present, the focus remains firmly on craftsmanship.
Lace, ribbon and corsetry form the technical backbone of the season. Lyon lace appears most prominently in the finale bridal look: an off-the-shoulder ballgown with a coordinating veil and ribbon-trimmed cuffs. Its corded surface adds dimension without compromising the lightness that has become a signature of the house.
Colour is restrained. Forget-me-not blue leads a muted, powdery palette that includes tea rose, noir and marron glacé. The tones support the collection’s old-world sensibility without overwhelming the detailing.
Each gown incorporates ribbon in some form — organza bows, embroidered ties or lacing threaded through exposed corsetry. Rather than functioning purely as embellishment, these elements reinforce structure and silhouette. Vasileff continues to refine proportion this season, balancing sculpted bodices with controlled volume. “My favourite part of any collection is often the form, and here we were really able to push and play, creating structure while keeping each gown as light as possible,” he explained.
Among the standout pieces, an accordion-pleated ballerina dress pairs a crystal-beaded corset with a bow-pleated skirt, striking that precise balance of restraint and whimsy Vasileff handles so well. A ballgown covered in floral paillettes brings quiet opulence. The finale encapsulates the collection’s intent: an off-the-shoulder Lyon lace wedding gown with coordinating veil and ribbon-trimmed cuffs — dimensional, light and technically assured.
With Forget Me Not, the emphasis is on material evolution and disciplined craftsmanship. The introduction of Lyon lace signals a subtle broadening of the atelier’s technical repertoire — less about flourish, more about construction and longevity.