Emotion in Fabric: Zhaoyi Yu’s Couture Narrative

Zhaoyi Yu transforms introspection into couture. Where some pursue spectacle or minimalism, Yu constructs garments that feel suspended between dream and reality: translucent layers, mother-of-pearl inlays, and corsetry that is at once protective and revealing. His work turns clothing into emotional architecture — subtle, meticulously crafted, and quietly radical.

Born in southern China, Yu studied at the London College of Fashion, graduating in 2023. He launched his eponymous label shortly after and his first collection at London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2025, GLIMPSE, has marked him as one to watch.

Yu’s aesthetic thrives on contrasts: fragile yet structured, romantic yet intellectually rigorous, tradition‑inflected yet forward-looking. Translucent organzas and delicate corsetry are combined with hand-applied mother-of-pearl inlays — inspired by his grandmother’s furniture — and Swarovski crystals, creating a luminous, otherworldly effect. Each piece functions as a narrative object, reflecting emotions and memories.

For GLIMPSE, Yu explored land, sea, and sky as metaphors for human fragility. Light, voluminous layers, shimmering inlays, and subtle sculptural forms evoke internal landscapes, translating daydreams and personal reflection into tangible couture. The collection marries meticulous craftsmanship with conceptual depth, asserting that beauty in fashion can coexist with narrative and emotion.

Yu’s work is not a pursuit of trends or spectacle. He frames his maximalism as enquiry: how can clothing express vulnerability, memory, and introspection? Each garment is a meditation on craft and concept, positioning Yu as both maker and storyteller.

In a global fashion landscape increasingly dominated by logos, rapid cycles, and homogenised aesthetics, Zhaoyi Yu reminds us that couture can be experimental and meaningful. His work bridges heritage and innovation, offering a quiet yet compelling vision for the future of luxury fashion.