Fall 2023 Haute Couture: Iris Van Herpen’s Architectonics

Iris van Herpen unveiled an alluring collection inspired by the future of floating cities and the concept of bionic design.

Van Herpen's creative journey began with the visionary ideas of Jacques Rougerie, a French Architect and Oceanographer, known as the ‘Architect of the Sea’. Rougerie's work bridges the gap between scientific exploration and architectural innovation, offering a deeper understanding of the intricate relationship between the oceans and our built environment. His designs of underwater habitats and floating laboratories, informed by his expertise as a marine biologist and architect, have inspired van Herpen's exploration of aquatic urbanism.  

Other looks of the collection were influenced by the revolutionary World’s First Floating City, ‘Oceanix’ that is currently being built in South Korea. As the first large manifestation of this new form of waterborne urbanism, designed by starchitect Bjarke Ingels, Oceanix integrates zero waste and circular systems, closed-loop water systems, net-zero energy, and coastal habitat regeneration.

Driven by R&D, the collection materialized the principles of parametric architecture that is known for its fluidity, fragmentation, and shifting patterns. The design's dynamic energy was evident in the explosive patterns that vibrate around the body, the fractal forms, and distorted perspectives that redefine fashion's traditional boundaries.