Spring 2025 Haute Couture: Chanel
Gabrielle Chanel once said, “Comfort has forms. Love has colors.”
CHANEL Haute Couture celebrates its 110th anniversary this year. Through subtle and bold combinations, the Creation Studio has chosen to pay tribute with the Spring/Summer 2025 Haute Couture collection to a central aspect of Coco Chanel’s work. With her radical use of black, the couturière brought about a major aesthetic revolution. Yet, she was also a great colourist. She worked with every colour of the spectrum, from blacks to whites, from the softest pastels to the most vivid tones.
White, pastels, bright tones, midnight blue and black: the progression of the collection follows a complete cycle of day to night.
The collection showcases a pyjama-style ensemble in dawn-hued silk crêpe, a sunshine yellow tweed suit, a lilac tweed dress with box pleats, a suit in white and black tweed painted and embroidered. Then come an orange-pink coat over a purple jacquard dress and a mimosa-hued dress suit with pale pink flounces.
Tweeds, pockets, braids, linings that match the blouse – which itself is sometimes attached to the skirt for a remarkable drop – and precious buttons: all the traits of the CHANEL allure are rendered. Playing with chromatic shocks and joyous contrasts, linings come in bronze, pink, green, yellow, royal blue or purple satin, while braids are graphic, multi-coloured or embroidered with little flowers. The rock crystal, metal and rhinestones buttons metamorphose into moons, suns and camellia flowers. Lunar and solar stars feature on black velvet belts which recall the importance of black to the House.
Alternating between short and long, the dresses are also both at once.
The delicacy of their fabrics allows for a virtuoso play on proportions. Ethereal and embroidered, flounced and pleated, they express the technical sophistication of Haute Couture. Stardust dress, red dress in embroidered chiffon, shirt dress with a pleated plastron in pale yellow double satin, long puffed sky-blue cape, white sequinned dress worn with a coat in champagne tweed: the collection is imbued with hints of a fairytale.
Through the lightness of the materials and subtle trompe l’oeil, painted lace and embroidered chiffon enhanced with halos of colour give the perfect illusion of tweed.
A dreamlike and theatrical imagination brought to life by Haute Couture.
