Spring 2017 Haute Couture: Zuhair Murad's Crystalized Fireworks


Two seasons ago Zuhair Murad had found inspiration in a starry night, embellishing his gowns with stars and planets (story here). For his Spring/Summer 2017 collection, the Lebanese designer once again looked up to sky, this time finding inspiration in fireworks he’d seen on the island of Miyajima in Japan, renowned for its Water Fireworks Festival every August.

Titled Fired Waltz, the collection draws on the image of fireworks fanning out in the night sky and casting mesmerizing reflections on the water below. Using an abundance of Swarovski crystals, the designer has recreated the exploding patterns, embracing rich, bold colors like fire red, pink fuchsia, moss green and electric blue that will make anyone lucky enough to wear one stand out even at a glamorous red-carpet event.

Murad opened his presentation with a short black dress that has long sleeves rendered in metallic lace with ruffled tulle over all the edges of the neckline and sleeves and the firework pattern rendered in white embroideries.

A succession of dazzling sheath gowns and halter top dresses followed, embellished with sculpted peplums or oversized bows (loosely referencing the lapping waves around the island). The designer varied the length of hemlines in the collection, offering several high and low gowns that could be worn bare legs or with pants, while heart-shaped bustiers alternated with more angular ones.

The bridal dress rendered in sand colored tulle with a plunging neckline was adorned with cascades of ruffles sprayed with showers of crystals for a fitting climax.