Spring 2017 Haute Couture: Ralph & Russo Embraces Geometry and Metallics


There was a new direction at Ralph & Russo this season: After years of floral references, designer Tamara Ralph seemed to be in the mood for a more urban, geometric approach and the runway show’s notes point out she is exploring, “the co-existence of urban and natural spheres.” While there were still plenty of red carpet-worthy gowns, a staple for the house, there were also more daywear options, with mini dresses, tailleurs, and a white crop top worn with pants (both trimmed with pearls and glass beads.


There was still plenty of flower embroideries but there were also very interesting scalloped edges, monochrome graphics on silk zibeline and tweed, and chevron designs with lace and sequins. The designer introduced a slightly edgy square corset style on strapless dresses, and a silk crepe gown with pleated tiered skirts sprinkled with sapphire crystals and sequins.

Stand-out designs include a short dress with silver foil fringe and feathers that was teamed with a tulle top featuring pleated flowers and crystal embroideries, an uber-sexy nude silk double stain gown with crossover pleated draping, and a pale blue ball gown with square corset featuring geometric ruffles on the skirt.

The color palette was dominated by white, silver, lavender, and pale pink and blue, for a chic summery feel.

Ending the show, the bridal gown in white tulle and pale grey organza was adorned with crystals, glass bead embroidery and small metallic flowers appliques, and it was accompanied with a grand silk organza cape of ostrich feathers.