Fall 2013 Haute Couture: Christophe Josse's Understated Luxury


Christophe Josse delivered a cohesive Fall/Winter 2013 haute couture collection that brought to mind heroines from a Tolstoi novel cocooned in quiet luxury for a cold and white winter.

In recent seasons, Josse has developed a more structured silhouette and this time his elegant tzarinas wore long column kaftans in wool crepe, soft lambswool dresses with delicately constructed sleeves, wool felt capes embroidered with rich gold thread or heat-embossed with a beautiful paisley motif, or short, tailored jackets with fluffy fur (Mongolian lambswool) edging the basque and collar. There was also an element of Russian folklore with effortlessly chic large peasant skirts that have large ruffles, and blouses also sporting ruffled sleeves.

The designer said in the program notes he had been inspired by the white steps of the Urals during winter, and this interpretation was evident in the liberal use of ivory, cream, and other poetic off-whites. Other soft tones used in this collection included bronze and powdered rose.

Josse is part of a new generation of couturiers and does not feel like he needs to use expensive laces, sequins, and beads to shout couture. His new collection was a perfect example that sometimes less is more.