Spring 2019 Haute Couture: Azzaro Remembers Studio 54

The Azzaro House drew its inspiration from the iconic Studio 54, the boundless hedonism that electrified the whole of New York, from Grace Jones to Diana Ross and Bianca Jagger, with Maxime Simoëns retaining the idea of a sophisticated look, tinged with euphoria and non-conformism.

Simoëns played on the contrast of shapes and proportions to instill an architectural dimension into the elegance of radical lines. The "build" grows in volume. The streamlined shoulders of masculine jackets opposed the sensuality of vertiginous necklines. Bold slits enhanced the fluidity of slender pencil dresses, oversized bows broke the rigor of short and immaculate bustier dresses,

This shimmering effect was heightened by the choice of materials with Simoens playing on the contrasts of opacity/transparency and lightness/structure by skilfully mixing the suppleness and sinuousness of fabrics such as velvet, leather, jacquard or lurex taffeta with delicate silk, diaphanous muslin, chrysalis organza, or carved eco fur.