Fall 2018 Haute Couture: Alexis Mabille's Floral Winter
Eschewing the darker colours usually association with Fall/Winter, Alexis Mabille’s Fall/Winter 2018 Haute Couture Collection offered a palette dominated by sunny pastel shades for a flower-themed show reflected in his silhouettes and the hand painted motifs on organza.
The programme notes pointed out his inspiration was an old Charles Trenet song: The heart of Paris is a flower and embracing the flower theme, the designer sent down his runway several corolla shaped looks from bustier to two-tiered dresses and skirts in a range of light, luxurious fabrics (Lyon lace, organza).
Handkerchief dresses in organza and crepe, long-sleeved shirt dresses in organza and cold-shoulders dresses gave the collection a very nonchalant, relaxed feel. Some of the silhouettes, such as those with large ruffles, were quintessential Mabille including a long bustier sheath dress in fuchsia crepe with a satin cape, and a bustier cape dress with ruffles of lace-appliqué tulle in shades of pink, on a petal crepe sheath.
Tulle was generously used for a ruffled fan-pleated bustier dress and graduated petticoat embroidered with rose gold sequins, as well as a ruffled satin organza skirt in a dust-to-yellow gradient with a matching cape.
To contrast with some of the tent-like silhouettes, he also showed variations on his signature tuxedo dresses, as well as several sheath dresses. Particularly successful was a graphic black and white striped satin organza gown with a neckline draped in a black satin bow, as well as gowns sporting his signature bows on asymmetrical necklines