Spring 2016 Haute Couture: Stephane Rolland’s Lyrical Vision


“Number 1: black silk crepe jumpsuit and pleated organza ‘Black Storm’ sleeves with jewelry straps in crystal,” boomed the clear voice of a female announcer, as the model in the described outfit slowly made her way down Stephane Rolland's runway, carrying a small, white, numbered card. “Number 8: long white crepe blouse Watteau dress adorned with jewelry bow,” the voice continued, as another of 17 models sashayed over.

The presentation harked back to ye old days of haute couture presentations, the way Christian Dior did in them in the 1950s, to allow clients the opportunity to admire up close the creations, and to understand the work that went in each of them.

Here, Rolland’s show-goers had the opportunity to view his sculptural pieces at closer range than usual, and the designer delivered dramatic ball gowns fit for the Opera Garnier for their viewing pleasure. But while some of his more recent works had focused on exaggerated sculptural ruffles around the shoulders and hips, his creations this season were more fluid and closer to the body, with a focus on pleating, in various forms and fabrics (organza, silk) to create origami effects on his skirts.

Of note were a splendid, 3D suede sweater encrusted with tiny crystals; a white sheath dress with a crêpe stole decorated with silicone feathers; impeccably cut jumpsuits with oversized sleeves; and sparkling crystal scarves that were tied around the collar or at the back.

As first published on BlouinArtinfo.com