Spring 2015 Haute Couture: Diaphanous Volumes at Stephane Rolland


As if laying bare the architectural process of his clothes, couturier Stephane Rolland sent down his Spring 2015 Haute Couture runway a line of impressive crinoline dresses in transparent gazar that either revealed their underlying structures or seem to hold by magic weightlessly.

While playing on the notion of volume and lightness with part of the collection, many of his pieces riffed on his previous collections, from the sharply tailored white jumpsuit with an elegant cape back, to a long narrow white skirt with beige ruffles that mimicked the movement of a kinetic sculpture.

But he also introduced new textural details, such as a 3-D embroidery side pocket that looked like a giant flower in bloom, or organza appliqués looking as light as feathers. Elsewhere, he continued to innovate with materials, such as gold and silver liquid latex that had been painted on sheer organza.

Seeking to appeal to a younger clientele, the designer even created a couture T-shirt in organza that could, conceivably, be worn over a pair of jeans.

Juxtaposing against his sculptural forms were light caftans that billowed with movement to reinforce his theme of weightlessness.

The couturier kept to a simple palette of pure white, black and camel that put the focus on his constructions and designs.

As first published on BlouinArinfo.com