Fall 2013 Haute Couture: Atelier Gustavolins
Presenting a sophisticated couture collection where the emphasis is on luxurious materials (cashmere and silk chiffon linings) and impeccable c onstruction, AtelierGustavolins continues to deconstruct the kimono, one of his favourite garments. The result? Structured clothes that frame a body in motion, offering comfort and flexibility. Brazilian couturier Gustavo Lins, who trained as an architect, said he was inspired by the work of Japanese architect Tadao Ando, whose architecture “leaves space to emptiness,” and emphasizes “the role of light.”
A powder pink silk tunic lined with a khaki chiffon was accessorized with an obi-like crocodile corset belt with a lime leather lining, and a grey mink long kimono vest without sleeves, but with a silk chiffon lining was worn over a pale pink silk jersey triangle top and silk and cotton spiral pants.
As usual for the couturier, the focus was on his models’ backs, where he twisted fabric to create an inverted “T,” a symbol of his brand (which also inspired some jewels created by Maison Goossens), while many models seemed to be enveloped in fabrics lightly held together.
Several outfits used three-quarter removable leather sleeves (by Maison Agnelle), while some kimono had lost their characteristic sleeves only retaining the essence of the long loose garment.
The couturier mixed pale colors (powder pink, pearl gray), with more vibrant accents (orange, yellow absinthe, blue steel) while continuing to experiment with prints. His “vibration” prints on silk were very pale as if the designer had used the reverse of the fabric instead of its front, though one stand-out print was a Tachist black and white pattern, discreetly embroidered by Maison Lesage.