Fall 2012 Haute Couture: Stephane Rolland's Structured Elegance
Finding inspiration in the curved angles of Finnish architect Alvar Aalto’s modernist furniture, Stephane Rolland’s collection explored the use of circular cut fabrics to create volume. The result was kinetic dynamism on the runway, as he sent out form-fitting silhouettes encased in voluminous gazar spathes acting as ‘cocoons on his silhouettes.
The fluid curves in Aalto’s furniture concepts could be seen in rounded angles, slits and geometrical cut-outs, while the furniture’s light-coloured wood inspired the designer’s palette.
Flowing and ethereal chiffon dresses with floor-sweeping sleeves, caped jumpsuits and tuxedos set the tone for a liberated and carefree mood. Fishtail skirts quivered with whimsical frayed organza appliqué. Soft silk jerseys and lush cashmeres added a sense of controlled nonchalance to the overall allure, while embellisments with rock crystal or silicone furs on shoulders and collars gave it a contemporary twist.
Rolland paid tribute to other design classics too. Verner Panton’s iconic lamps receive homage as avalanches of laser-cut chiffon emulate the cascading mother of pearl discs in his ‘Fun’ series and layered organza scales evoke the ‘Yamagiwa’ form. Meanwhile, suede-sheathed metallic accessories paid tribute to the raw and versatile forms in Christina Jékey’s sculptures.