Fall 2012 Haute Couture: Elie Saab's Ottoman Spendours


Elie Saab remained true to the elegant, shimmering style that has made him a red-carpet darling in recent years, sending down his runway another polished collection of heavily embellished gowns. He infused his usual line up of embroidered lace and applique on transparent tulle dresses with new rich silk brocade inspired by Ottoman motifs.

His silhouette remained tall and slim, with floor-skimming skirts and long sleeves dominating the collection, but there were also a few shorter cocktail dresses to create exquisite looks for any occasion. High necks created a demure effect that was counterbalanced by plunging V backs and the design often left the edges of the lace raw, creating an elegant and delicate Edwardian feel to his gowns.

A shower of facetted stones form constellations on the fabrics — encircling the wrist, sitting over the heart like a brooch, or tracing precious rivulets — while lace and embroidery follows in their wake to enhance a slim waist or a bare back. Pearls glistened alongside sequins in decorative shapes and, similar to last season, silhouettes carry a slim belt though this time fastening at the back for a cleaner look.

Of particular note was the array of embroidered black gowns in tulle, lace and georgette which opened the show, playing on the ideas of transparency with overlay of lace and tulle embroidered with sequin. The closing bridal gown made of organza embossed with shimmering gold brocade leaves would be fit for an Ottoman princess.

As Published in Couture by Designaré - Vol 3 (September 2012)