Spring 2012 Haute Couture: Stephane Rolland's Sculptural Mastery

 photo: @Couturenotebook

photo: @Couturenotebook

Having been inspired last season by Caoshu, a cursive form of Chinese calligraphy, Stéphane Rolland cast his eye over the work of French sculptor Michel Deverne for his 2012 Spring Summer Collection.

Deverne’s influences were immediately evident in the opening creation: a two piece suit with in ivory gazar and silk jersey blazer with a black wrap skirt. The “sculptured” collar recalled Deverne's kinetic work as the undulating gazar moved with every step the model took in her vertiginous heels.  The kinetic influence was further evident in layered shark fin lapels and spiral cocoons that sprout from shoulders and hips, a gazar petal dress and red silk crepe on the front of an evening dress that had the dramatic energy of a lava flow.

The presentation was Rolland’s most impressive show yet, with figure-hugging gowns embellished with ostrich feathers and lacquered metal details or decorated with golden crescents standing out for their elegance.

As ever, the Grand Couturier treated his audience to a spectacular finale. Yasmin Le Bon proved a show-stopping vision, wearing a dramatic red wool crepe dress with oversized, red lacquered sculpted metal plastron that weighed over 100 pounds.

Despite folds, pleats and flounces being the accents in each look, the collection stood out for its clean and sober lines.

As Published in Couture by Designaré – Vol 2 (April 2012)