Embroideries of arrows and chevrons, organza painted with cacti and flames and long fringes; Native American culture was at the heart of Zuhair Murad’s Spring 2018 Couture collection, as the Lebanese designer paid homage to the craftsmanship of the Sioux, Navajo, and Iroquois though glittering embroideries of traditional prints and pictograms.

The color palette of white (purity and peace), red (fire), gold (sun) and black evoked the symbolism of traditional Native American art, while triangle-shaped dresses adorned with pearls, fringes and bold V-shaped cut outs recalled tepee structures.

Tunics came with a frontal split and multiple layers, or were deconstructed and paired with a cape or worn with matching cigarette pants. A Peplum jacket was twisted with feather work and a muslin skirt; feathers were used generously throughout.

The designer played with transparencies in the juxtaposition of lace and macramé, as well as in the triangular slits that run throughout the collection, allowing the wearer’s skin to shine through the different overlaid textures.