An avid collector of Chinese antique jewellery, Cynthia Ruan founded C - The Art of Chinese Imperial Jewellery with a view to preserve Chinese traditional jewellery craftsmanship, and in particular the art of gold filigree, working with threads as fine as 0.1mm. Having found craftsmen who could still pass on their knowhow, she established a workshop in Beijing in 2005 and developed new tools to help recreate ancient techniques.

Her unique statement pieces are full of symbolism, largely inspired by Chinese classic literature, architecture and philosophy. During Paris couture week, Ruan presented Renaissance of Oriental Imperial Jewellery at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, a retrospective exhibition that showcased her atelier’s skilled work and introduced pieces from her latest collection dedicated to the 12 Western Zodiac signs.

Amongst the stand out retrospective pieces was the Ostrich and Phoenix Recital — a long, coral bead and filigree gold necklace with a central white coral carved flower that took seven months to realize — and the Immense Seas pearl and diamond necklace that features eight large tanzanites weighing 77.57 carats and is inspired by the undulation of waves as embroidered on the gowns of Chinese Emperors. The jeweller will soon open a boutique in Hong Kong and is also planning a small outpost at the Ritz Hotel in Paris.