Songket is a traditional hand woven Indonesian brocade that Indonesian designer Didit Hediprasetyo has included repeatedly, but sparsely, in many of his couture collections. This season, the material takes center stage paired with leather in the young designer’s spring/summer couture collection, but Hediprasetyo has an interesting twist: a houndstooth pattern.

Hediprasetyo continues to demonstrate his mastery of understated luxury with simple, close to the body cuts that flatter a woman’s body. While last season he had given his re-interpretation of the traditional Cheongsam, this season the design has been inspired by western clothing from the 1950s. His collection put an emphasis on small high-waist designs with a slight curve to the hips through draped pleats, straight-cut trousers and A-line skirts.

A tailored cardigan in supple leather, draped necklines, a long dress tailored in vanilla leather with a high belt constructed like a corset, chic jumpsuits with a lambskin skin corset, Hediprasetyo gave his collection an element of early rock-and-roll without being too overtly