Fall 2019 Haute Couture: Azzaro
(press release) The House of Azzaro lifts the veil on an evanescent, festive collection. It pays tribute to hedonism and freedom in a carefree Bohemian spirit, all with an air of radiant sophistication, and returns to the brand’s subtle art of unveiling through delicate openwork fabrics and transparent effects.
The Azzaro woman boldly kindles a resolutely glamorous ease and reveals her spark. The flowy cuts mix with architectural volumes.
They play with varied lengths and mixed effects of shine and translucence.
Whether woven through with lurex thread to enliven tie & dye shades or haloed in crystals, chains, rivets and metal studs, the designs honour the expertise of the brand's ateliers.
Bringing structure to this allure is embroidery that has the intense graphic look so dear to Loris, who makes it all resonate with a festive aura.
That embroidery forms all-over openwork on a short dress and strews gems over the bandeau of a harness dress.
Chain work adorns a blue chiffon dress, crystals invade a midnight blue trench, and stars make constellations on a boldly proportioned ruffled tulle jacket. The longline silhouette is fluid and svelte.
Materials are juxtaposed, volumes are generous, and sleeve effects are plenty. From a pagoda shape on a dress to a kimono cut on a kaftan, sleeves open up over the arm before delicately cinching in at the wrist with crystals or bows.
Chiffon, whether shaded or solid, creates a blurry effect on pieces to better smudge their contours; it creates an airy cape over a bare back and adds volume to a long skirt in the form of lined ruffles. Emerald, ruby, and mineral blue ombrés, along with indigo tie & dye with an all-over peony print, light up the collection.
A mix of beaded fringes, diaphanous patchwork lace, and sequins add the rhythm. Driven by the same inspiration, the men’s wardrobe draws on a mixed couture-bohemian spirit with chain fringes, flowing prints, and metallics.
The volumes may be more structured, but the lightness of movement is expressed here in rivets and studs sprinkled over jackets and shirts. Chains enliven the front of a jacket and form the initial A on the back.
The colours here echo the women’s colours with emerald, tie & dye and indigo tones as well as the silver sparkle of studs and eyelets. That intensity can be seen in a jewel-toned jacket bermuda set, a technical windbreaker with opalescent accents, and an iridescent coated trench. In an oneiric and ardent musical performance by the Scandinavian artist Aurora, games of transparency and light unveil the creations in all grace.
The collection revisits the brand's iconic feel in a spirit that combines bohemian Paris and contemporary Couture. It brightens gypset grace with assured elegance in a look of restrained nonchalance