The China-born, Paris-raised couturier, Yiqing Ying has now been showing as an invited guest of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture since 2012, but this was her first collection as an anointed Grand Couturier – the title for a permanent member. After losing her way last season, showing a collection which was more ready-to-wear than couture, the young designer returned in force with what originally made her success: a sculptural approach to design coupled with a mastery of foldings.

Indeed, the name of her collection, Blooming Ashes, seemed to indicate this phoenix-like rebirth, with the couturier sending down the catwalk models dressed in beautiful drape, be it an asymmetrical sleeveless top or a long jersey dress. Soft fabric gently encircled the bodies, protecting them like an armour, while the color palette was earthy with terracotta, orange and muted grey.

The couturier continued to demonstrate her ability to work fur with a striking dress crafted like a mosaic and adorned with laser-cut leather scales by textile designer Coen Carsten,

With strappy leather harnesses encircling the fabric or holding it together, cage-like structural swirls around the torso, fragile chainmail mesh composed with copper wired snaps, and an elegant use of knotted ropes to hold the fabric together of a silky pale grey gown, her Spring/Summer 2016 haute collection was one that even the Khaleesi, Mother of Dragon (a fictional character from the popular TV series Game of Thrones), would lust after.

As first published on BLOUINARTINFO.COM