The pure lines of architect Tadao Ando’s concrete Church of the Light in the city of Ibarki, Japan, were the inspiration behind the restrained looks sent out by Christophe Josse.

The pared down collection was free of embellishment and flamboyant adornments that would have distracted from the strong craftsmanship of the grand couturier’s atelier. He instead played on a rich contrast of fabrics.

His opening all-black looks set the tone: an apron of black beaver fur adorned the front of a tight-fitting dress of black satin and neoprene with only a touch of gold at the waist; a wool crepe dress boasted elegant structured sleeves and a simple gold collar; a zipped coat in black lacquered crocodile and wool crepe embroidered with glass pearls sported a collar and sleeves in cashmere knit. Ando’s inspirational design was evident in a white wool crepe dress ribbed with silk satin and enhanced by a large collar in white crocodile.

For the evening, Josse created elegant bare backed gowns with romantic, flowing floor-length organza skirts. Ostrich feathers featured on a long skirt worn with a zipped jacket in white silk as well as on the shoulders of a plunging V-neck waistcoat, balancing a va-va-vom line with a more angelic feel.

Throughout the collection, the couturier offered controlled structure with a touch of glamour. It was understated elegance with a luxury feel at its best.

As written for Couture by Designaré – Vol 3 (September 2012)